It really says something when you order a two-piece “snack box” ($6.95 for legs or thighs, add $1 for a breast) and receive a 2-pound plate loaded with a fried breast the size of a Pomeranian, three potatoes’ worth of breaded jojos and nary a speck of color aside from brown. Ah, but that’s the beauty of Cider Mill-Fryer Tuck Chicken, a cavernous Multnomah Village oasis that looks like a small-town Midwestern hunting lodge and declares all-out war on your left ventricle. Also tasty is the Pull This ($7.95), a pulled-chicken slop stuffed into a hoagie full of coleslaw and sweet barbecue sauce. But that’s a little too much color at a place where the most delicious items are the color of charred mahogany. Fryer Tuck offers fried chicken that gives the city’s best, Reel ’M Inn, a run for its money—and for chicken scratch.