Look, if you come to Melt, you come for the happy hour. Sure, you’d be skipping out on the regular menu’s soppressata pizza ($10), which is a shame, but Melt’s happy hour (which lasts, in near-retarded obliviousness to the form, from 2 pm to close, which means it excludes only lunch) is comfort food’s apotheosis: cheap, hearty and varied, from a $5 half-pound of wings to a duplex of cabbage-slawed pork sliders ($4) to a baked mac ’n’ cheese ($4) that lives up to the restaurant’s name. Otherwise, hey, it’s a place for a sunny drink after a book club or day hike; it’s far too well-lit, with feng shui far too domestic-weird (the kitchen imposes from every angle) to ever feel anything but wholesome. And if you don’t like what’s playing over the P.A., just go to the restroom, which has its own very private sound system in the form of an AM/FM clock radio tucked inside a little corner table by the toilet. No kiddin’.