Cheap Eats 2011: Nicholas

The tiny Southeast Grand Avenue location of this two-decade-old Lebanese institution has always been considered the best, but since the family-owned operation morphed its “Arabian Breeze” Middle Eastern restaurant on Northeast Broadway to just become a straight-up Nicholas Part 2, it’s rocketed its level in taste and consistency (and the wait time for a table) sky high. The sunny restaurant still serves a handful of the Breeze specialties, like garlicky pickled baby eggplant makdous ($8.25) and slow-cooked lamb and garbanzo bean stew (riz-be-tfeen, $12.25), but really it’s all about basics like mezza plates ($9) and the best kebabs ($9.25) in town. The veggie mezza’s bounty, from oniony spinach pie and crunchy, aromatic falafel balls to creamy hummus and tabbouleh, are enough for a full meal along with the giant, pillowy pita that comes free, straight from the open kitchen up front to your table. Add on chicken kebabs, a pair of 9-inch skewers of ridiculously moist, marinated, grilled chicken, onions and peppers served atop a mountain of flavorful rice and garlic cream sauce, and you’ll have leftovers for a week.