9:30 am-midnight daily, dim sum 9:30 am-3 pm daily.

Sure, dinner at this stately Cantonese banquet hall near Fubonn is enjoyable, but it's during the midmorning and lunch hours that it really comes alive as the only Portland dim sum spot to rival Wong's King. Extended Asian families and culinary thrill-seekers wait patiently for up to an hour on weekends to burn their fingertips on hot, little foil-wrapped packages of succulent ginger chicken and glutinous deep-fried rice footballs stuffed with oozy spiced pork. All the standards are represented here, whizzing around your head in clackety little carts piloted by small, insistent women armed with ladles and scissors: The stuffed noodles are toothsome, the roasted duck is moist and juicy, and the Chinese greens perfectly steamed. Pace yourself. You're not going to be able to resist that last order of delicate green onion and shrimp dumplings. It'd be a shame if your stomach exploded on your very first visit to China. KELLY CLARKE.