Tucked into a quiet nook south of downtown, Old Lair Hill Market Cafe looks the part of an undistinguished neighborhood spot with just-OK food. The cafe starts winning you over, though, with its utterly incoherent decor—a sort of cross between a European cafe and your grandparents' sitting room—and its general, refreshing lack of self-consciousness. Then it hits it home with equally straightforward, delicious sandwiches. The toasted Reuben ($6.75) is done right, and the avocado Swiss melt ($5.95) is a good veggie option, but it was the moist and surprisingly light meatloaf sandwich ($7.25) that stole my heart. Looking for a low-key after-work-drinks spot downtown? Lair Hill has a sensibly priced full bar as well. JONATHAN