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March 8th, 2011 RUTH BROWN | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2011: Tandoor Indian Kitchen

     
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Let’s be honest—the Indian lunch buffet is all about quantity over quality. It’s the challenge of testing how much chicken tikka you can guzzle before your brain catches up to your stomach or your innards drown in ghee. But this downtown hole-in-the-wall offers a surprisingly tasty way to burst your belly. Hidden inside Tandoor’s unassuming buffet bain-marie, you’ll find rich and creamy sauces, light and crunchy pakoras, soft paneer and warm, crispy naan. It’s not exactly the pinnacle of Punjabi cuisine, but it’s fresh, full of spice and flavor and, most importantly, for $10, you can shove as much of it in your gob as is humanly possible, then chase it with free chai. Just save a bit of room for the rice kheer; it’s a little on the watery side, but so thick with flavors of saffron, cardamom and other spices I’m sure I can’t spell, it’s worth forgoing that third serving of biryani to sample.

 
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