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March 8th, 2011 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2011: Thai Noon

     
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“Healthy Thai Cuisine,” the menu claims, with “healthy cuisine” apparently being defined against food that can literally break into your house and strangle you while you sleep. The oil slicks here might not shimmer with that familiar noodle-shack brilliance, but let’s not fool ourselves into thinking that the pad Thai and pad see ew (both $8.95-$9.95, depending on your meat preference) are anything more than carefully arranged heaps of sweetened carbohydrate comforts. The sad fact of the matter is that nothing healthy can be craved with such violence on a chilly night. The tom yum soup ($8.95-$9.95) might actually be salutary to some degree, if you buy into food as a cold cure. The hot-and-sour broth with fresh chiles and lime juice cuts through stuffiness like a hot blade through fog, and unlike much of Thai Noon’s stir-fried combinations, it does not taste like dessert.

 
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