Benessere Olive Oils and Balsamic
907 SW 9th Ave., 206-5317, oilgoodness.com. 10:30 am-5:30 pm Sunday-Wednesday, 10:30 am-7 pm Thursday-Friday, 9 am-7 pm Saturday.
[NONESSENTIAL OILS]
This specialty oil and vinegar store opened up downtown to very little
fanfare last year—kind of surprising for a fat- and flavor-focused
business in a food-obsessed city—but is absolutely worth discovering for
yourself. Sampling cups, large metal casks and unobtrusive staff leave
customers free to taste their way through every one of Benessere’s vast
array of liquid treats. Olive oils range from a basic house blend to
infused concoctions like blood orange and basil. The butter EVOO is
outrageous. Vinegars and balsamics run a similar rainbow of fruit
flavors, from fig to blackberry ginger, with several aged varieties.
There’s also a range of other high-end oils, including truffle, porcini
and roasted French walnut. Best of all, you can mix any of the products
in your own custom blend. Mushroom, sage and white truffle oil, anyone?
(RB)
Shopping list: Bottles of flavored olive oils (200 ml) and balsamic vinegars.
Bob’s Red Mill Whole Grain Store
5000 SE International Way, Milwaukie, 607-6455, bobsredmill.com. 6 am-6 pm Monday-Friday, 7 am-5 pm Saturday.
[FLOUR]
With its daily factory tours, gigantic antique millstone and oversized
red barn decor attracting tourists and carb fiends, the bucolic
headquarters of Bob Moore’s flour empire is basically the Tillamook
Cheese Factory of Milwaukie. It’s also a bulk-bin wonderland that scoops
out pound upon pound of beans, oats, brownie mix and, of course, flour
made of everything from green peas, potato, quinoa and amaranth to even
good old wheat. What Bob’s lacks in bargains it makes up for in endless
selection. After eyeballing the rows of packaged organic flours, date
crumbles, soup and pancake mixes and, more recently, a whole aisle of
gluten-free products, collapse out on the patio with a house-baked
muffin alongside the couple on one side wearing motorcycle leathers and
the Quaker wife and her brood on the other. (KC)
Shopping list: Twenty-five-pound bag of garbanzo-fava flour, gluten-free brownie mix, Bob’s Red Mill ball cap.
Cheese Bar
6031 SE Belmont Ave., 222-6014, cheese-bar.com. 11 am-11 pm Tuesday-Sunday.
[CHEESE, BEER]
Steve Jones has upgraded his digs from the back corner of Square Deal
Wines to a chic, slate-gray chamber at the foot of Mount Tabor, but his
fabled cheese case is still front and center—and still filled with a
personally vouched-for selection of amazing fromage from small
producers across the globe. Jones is particularly taken with Alpine
“mountain cheeses” right now, which, he explains, refers to anything
produced when animals graze exclusively at higher altitudes and
therefore on fresh, green grasses, yielding cheeses with a nutty, rich,
funky flavor. The fact that I can now listen to this kind of information
with a beer in my hand is truly marvelous (six rotating taps, plus
lotsa bottles). Oh, and did I mention the other case full of Olympic
Provisions sausages? I know. Mind blown. (KC)
Shopping list: American artisan cheeses, Black Bear XX Stout on tap, honey.
Food Fight
1217 SE Stark St., 233-3910, foodfightgrocery.com. 10 am-8 pm daily.
[VEGAN]
The vegan stalwart of Southeast Stark Street’s vegan mini-mall calls
itself a grocery but, with its small produce case and immense selection
of cruelty-free junk food, more resembles a 7-Eleven run by PETA. A
selection: vegan nougat, Inka Plantain Chips, Ricemellow Creme, vegan
hot-cocoa mix, vegan brownie mix and vegan haggis. Beyond the racks of
bags and boxes of things that are good for your karma but probably bad
for your waistband are a deli case, plenty of faux cheese and meat
products, and big cans of “complete whole food health optimizer.” (BW)
Shopping list: Earth Balance Vegan Buttery Sticks, Tofurky jerky, Bob’s Red Mill textured vegetable protein.
JC Rice Noodle
8405 SE Foster Road, 788-1668. 7 am-7 pm daily.
[NOODLES, TOFU] This tiny shop on an unpleasant corner of Foster Road makes fresh, thin rice noodles—shahe fen,
the kind used in pad Thai and chow fun—with a 33-foot beast of a
machine that’s just visible past the counter. You can buy the chewy,
slippery noodles in 12-inch-square sheets, in rolls or chopped into
inch-wide ribbons for 95 cents per pound. Use them the day you buy them;
they dry out. JC also makes good, dense tofu ($1 per one-pound block)
and soy milk, along with a brief menu of noodle dishes to order out or
eat in, at the shop’s video lottery consoles. Why are there lottery
machines in a noodle shop? It’s Foster Road. (BW)
Shopping list: Noodles, tofu, barbecue pork rice noodle roll to snack on in the car.
Lingonberries Market
6300 NE 117th Ave., Vancouver, 360-260-4411, lingonberriesmarket.com. 10 am-7 pm Monday-Friday, 9 am-6 pm Saturday, 11 am-5 pm Sunday.
[GLUTEN-FREE]
Anyone plagued by gluten or wheat allergies, meet your new Valhalla:
Every single thing sold at Lingonberries Market, from beer to baking
ingredients to (no kidding) communion wafers, is gluten-free. It’s not
likely to lure through the plains of Vancouver many of those who lustily
gorge on beer and bread, but Lingonberries meets the needs of a
difficult diet well, and prospers. You’ll find the gluten-free line of
familiar brands such as Bob’s Red Mill and Annie’s next to 100 percent
anti-gluten Udi’s and Better Bread Co. Deceptively tasty treats from
local bakeries Fairycakes and Bavaria Mills are also on offer. (CM)
Shopping list: Most anything—oatmeal, barbecue sauce, baguettes, ice cream—de-glutenized.
The Meadow
3731 N Mississippi Ave., 388-4633, atthemeadow.com. 10 am-6 pm Monday-Saturday, 10 am-5 pm Sunday.
[SALT]
“Selmelier” Mark Bitterman’s adorable, flower-festooned shop is devoted
to salt—yep, salt—more than 50 types of exotic finishing salts from
20-plus countries so far. It’s worth a trip just to taste-test his
varieties, from India’s coarse black volcanic Kala Namak ($3.75 an
ounce) to institutional pink Japanese Maboroshi plum salt ($7.25
an ounce). But once you’re there, you may as well pick up a bar from the
gift shop’s huge collection of artisan chocolates and a Himalayan salt
plate, too.... (KC)
Shopping list: Gray salt, flake salt, fleur de sel, smoked salt...you get the idea.
OTA Tofu
812 SE Stark St., 232-8947. 8 am-5 pm Monday-Saturday.
[SOY JOY]
You can now buy this locally made tofu in many grocery stores around
town, but the freshest (not to mention cheapest) slices still come
straight from the original factory, quietly tucked away behind the
Slammer in inner Southeast. Bring your own container (seriously;
otherwise they’ll give you a soggy paper Chinese takeout box) and fill
it with huge hunks of soft Japanese tofu, perfect for making miso soup
or agedashi tofu. Fair warning: Even the “firm” is pretty fragile, so
you’ll need to squeeze the water out very carefully to do any sort of
vigorous cooking with it. Or just buy the tasty pre-fried squares, which
are ready to eat straight away—though they probably won’t last the trip
home. (RB)
Shopping list: Firm and soft tofu, fried tofu.
Penzey’s Spice Company
120 NW 10th Ave., 227-6777; 11322 SE 82nd Ave., 653-7779; penzeys.com. 10 am-6 pm Monday-Saturday, 11 am-5 pm Sunday.
[SPICES]
If it’s ground, dried, cured or macerated for use by human beings, this
spice mecca probably carries it—online if not at one of its retail
shops. The Wisconsin-based company is known for seeking out the best
varieties of vanilla bean, Turkish Aleppo peppers, curry mixes and
Szechuan peppercorns and selling them at surprisingly reasonable rates.
Penzey’s Portland outposts are packed with tidy wooden crates and bins
of more than 250 spices and herbs. They smell like a particularly
festive day in heaven. All of Penzey’s wares come with detailed labels, with samples stored in apothecary jars so you can take a whiff of the stuff yourself. (BW)
Shopping list: Penzey’s chili
seasoning, crystallized ginger, orange extract, Chinese cassia cinnamon,
a “Kitchen of Provence” gift crate of spices, packed with Turkish bay
leaves and cinnamon sticks in place of Styrofoam peanuts ($126.79).
Real Good Food
833 SE Main St., realgoodfood.com. 5-7 pm “most Mondays” and once a month at the PSU Farmers Market.
[OLIVE OIL]
Jim Dixon sells really, really good olive oil from Italy and California
(and sometimes sea salt, balsamic vinegar, farro, haricot beans and hot
sauce) from a table at the Portland Farmers Market and out of a tiny
warehouse at the Southeast Portland Activspace. His prices are pretty
reasonable. If you’re into oil in a big way, he’ll sell you a share of
his next shipment at a discount. (BW)
Shopping list: Excellent olive oil, Crystal hot sauce.
The Spice and Tea Exchange
536 SW Broadway, 208-2886, spiceandtea.com. 10:30 am-7 pm Monday-Saturday, noon-6 pm Sunday.
[SPICES, SALTS]
This new high-end spice shop doesn’t have the breadth of Penzey’s
Spices or the obsessive depth of the Meadow, but it has a
super-accessible location—making it a fun, chic place to taste and sniff
your way through the world, and buy a few small gifts while you’re at
it. Ivy O’Brien’s crimson-colored Old World boutique (part of a small
Florida-based chain) boasts all the sweet, savory, herby basics, plus
funky-flavored sugars (from tangerine to espresso and habanero, $4.89
for 1.5 ounces) and lots of cooking and finishing salts ($2.89-$4.89 for
1.5 ounces). But its secret weapon is a wall of spice blends the crew
grinds fresh every week, from Thai coconut rub to za’atar blend ($4.29
an ounce). (KC)
Shopping list: Mini microplane, big chunk of Bolivian rose salt, dynamite herbes de Provence blend, and beer extract powder, just because.
You're missing the new Penzey's Spices in Beaverton Town Center...
I love Penzey's, but it's originally British, not American.
It was founded in Milwaukee, Wis.