It took three attempts finally to sample the wares of this anonymous white truck parked across the street from the entrance to the Montgomery Park complex. Twice we trekked the mile from our office only to find Kindle Kart shuttered or without wood to fuel the pizzaiolo's oven. We agreed to try one more time. The window was open. There was wood.

It was worth the wait. 

Kindle Kart debuted in 2010 on North Mississippi Avenue, two miles and a world away from its current digs. Its mission is split: One half of the menu is devoted to wood oven-baked pizzas; the other, to burgers and double-fried pommes frites. The 10-inch pizzas ($6.50-$8) are great, on par with those at Pizza Depokos. The architecture of Kindle Kart's oven leaves more char on the top of the pie than the bottom, making for a slightly crisp but not crackery cornicione. The burgers ($5.50-$6.50) are also very good, with 1/3-pound patties of ground brisket cooked medium and served in freshly baked brioche buns. Try one with jalapeño, and don't forget to add a side of fries with roasted garlic sauce ($2.50). Then jog back to your office to work it all off. 

  • Order this: Pizza with Gartner’s pepperoni and lots of mozzarella ($8).
  • Best deal: The $6 bacon and blue-cheese burger.
  • I’ll pass: A full order of fries ($5) is way too big even to share. 

EAT: Kindle Kart, Northwest 26th 27th Avenue and Vaughn Street, 893-5049, 11 am-2 pm Monday-Friday. $