Island Mana Wines: Aloha Lite

ISLAND MANA

When a bar plays lilting ukulele tunes on its website and sets up speakers underneath its sidewalk sandwich board, I expect a full-on luau. I want a flower lei around my neck, the heat cranked up and a pig roasting on a spit—or at least some hula-dancer bobble dolls on the bar. I want a vacation, damn it. In some ways, Island Mana Wines (526 SW Yamhill St., 971-229-1040) does make you feel like a tourist—on my visit, there were patrons from Washington, D.C., and San Diego. "Oooh!" the Californians squealed, upon learning my friend and I were locals. "Have you heard of Voodoo Doughnuts?" Maybe it's best to approach the wines—most made from tropical fruit, along with chardonnay and cabernet—as delicacies just too complicated for a dumb foreigner to appreciate. Or, like my friend, you could compare the mango wine to runny sweet-and-sour sauce. Island Mana starts to go there—it has a bar made from a repurposed surfboard and two flat-screen TVs showing waterfalls and waves—but it's just too tentative to transport you to paradise.

WWeek 2015

Rebecca Jacobson

Rebecca Jacobson is a writer from Portland (OK, she was born in Seattle but has been in Oregon since the day after she turned 10) who's also lived in Berlin, Malawi and Rhode Island. While on staff at Willamette Week, she covered theater, film, bikes, drug dealers-turned-barbers and little-known scraps of local history.

Willamette Week’s reporting has concrete impacts that change laws, force action from civic leaders, and drive compromised politicians from public office.

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