Bar Alla Bomba: Visions of Venice

BAR ALLA BOMBA

Rarely is a bar so obviously the product of its owner's dreams as Bar Alla Bomba (1101 E Burnside St., 971-266-8756, barallabomba.com). The bar was at a very low simmer during a recent Thursday happy hour—a crowd the bartender says was larger than the entire previous night. The newly minted bar is in a location thought to be cursed, home to four bars in about six years. "I feel like if I stay true to my vision, my customers will find me," he says, staring wistfully across the bar and out the windows. The vision? A night in Venice filled with summery, bittersweet cocktails and cicchetti: little Italian bar snacks and mini-panini. On a cold winter night, the vision seemed distant. The bar's architecture takes its personality mostly from its beautiful rock-cobbled bar top, made with stones culled from demolitioned Northwest Portland streets. But the small-plates menu is surprisingly cheap and faithful to its Venetian model, featuring $2-to-$6 dishes of boar sausage, salt cod or baby octopus in squid ink. The Italian cocktail menu—a world of Aperol, Campari and sweet vermouth—is much more expensive, ranging up to $12. I'd advise arriving for happy hour (4-7 pm), which features a $5 bartender's choice. 

WWeek 2015

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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