Upon first glance, the main trade of the Woodsman Market, the concern Duane Sorenson has situated in a vacant storefront between his successful tavern and coffee roastery, seems to be a random assortment of products with attractive packaging.

Inside the boutique bodega, you'll find Cerise Noire cherry jam, a $175 Shun chef knife, 5-pound bags of whole-wheat pastry flour, local bee pollen, Svensk Drom sea-salt soap, Le Creuset mini cocottes (three for $60) and toilet paper (Cottonelle, no price). Does anyone buy toilet paper here? "I've never seen anyone buy it, but maybe if you lived in the neighborhood," says the cashier. (I live in the neighborhood; we have Rite Aid.)

So what does the Woodsman Market do? Sometimes, it sells milk, cheese, deli meat or salty beef-jerky sticks ($2). Mainly, though, it makes sandwiches on hearty bread with fine meats and cheeses.

A breakfast sandwich on a crisped English muffin ($7) first caught my eye while sipping at Stumptown next door. With sliced sausage links, a gooey over-easy egg and sharp cheddar, it didn't disappoint—though I'd hold the ketchup next time and ask about hot peppers. Likewise for the smoked ham version.

For lunch, an Italian sub ($8) layers marbled sopressata and capocolla on crusty bread with shredded lettuce squirted with vinegar and oil. It's a very faithful rendition of the Jersey standby, in an appropriate portion, but it's a little timid for my taste. Likewise for a milky asparagus soup ($6 with bread). Instead, expect me at breakfast—or, maybe, when I need toilet paper.

  • Order this: Sausage breakfast sandwich with no ketchup ($7).
  • I’ll pass: Soup and bread ($6). 

EAT: The Woodsman Market, 4529 SE Division St., 971-373-8267, woodsmantavern.com. 9 am-7 pm daily. $.