Headout: Cracking the Code

Night Train Express

By Matthew Korfhage

Oregonian

wine writer Katherine Cole has a new book out that demystifies the often confusing information on wine bottles from Italy, France and Portugal. We enjoyed her

Complete Wine Selector

but discovered, to our shock, that it's not actually complete. Even as Cole explains that the "RM" on Champagne bottles means

récoltant-manipulant

("grower-producer") and the elongated shape of a riesling bottle is called a "hock," other wines remain mysterious. For example, Night Train Express.

E & J Gallo Winery

no longer publicly acknowledges its connection to the fabled fortified wine, and has ignored our requests for information. But we've done our best to help you crack the code. Staple this page to the back of Cole's

Complete Wine Selector,

and you'll have a guide that's actually complete.



Click on image for larger version:
Bridge, Evan Johnson; Night Train, E&J Gallo

 

GO: Katherine Cole will appear at Pastaworks on Hawthorne, 3735 SE Hawthorne Blvd., on Saturday, Nov. 16. 2 pm. Free. Night Train Express is available at Tobacco Town and Albertsons.


WWeek 2015

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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