Boring Brewing Co.

13503 SE Richey Road, Boring, 793-1382, Open weekends, call ahead.

The second the heat from the Scotch bonnet peppers hits your sinuses, you realize Boring Brewing doesn't really live up to its name. The town where you find the brewery, however, does so in spades. John Griffin's little brewery is on a semi-rural strip near a golf course, on the way to Mount Hood. There is a barn. There are goats. There are chickens eating spent brewing grain. And there is an affable brewer with more than 20 years of experience filling $10 growlers of Scotch Ale touched with just enough spice to wake up the nasal passages. The same goes for the more-subtle pepper note in the RyPA (rye IPA). And the cannabic zing of fresh hops in the recent CDA. What there aren't, yet, is bottles. So you make the hike to Boring (after calling ahead!), or you wait for Green Dragon or Horse Brass to pick up the occasional tap. But you get the beer. Because Boring beers are interesting. MATTHEW KORFHAGE.

DRINK THIS: The Boring RyPA's 10-percent ABV rye malt adds just enough crackle in the throat to provide a counterpoint to the usual IPA bitterness. It's a nice twist on the style.