1313 NW Marshall St., 241-3612, 11:30 am-10 pm Monday, 11:30 am-11 pm Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30-midnight Friday-Saturday, 11:30 am-10 pm Sunday.

BridgePort Brewing opened in 1984, anticipating the beervana boom that wouldn't start in earnest for at least another decade. Little aside from ownership has changed over the ensuing decades. Housed inside a huge brick-and-steel-lined warehouse in what's now known as the Pearl—it was the less-marketable "Northwest Industrial Triangle" when BridgePort opened—the brewpub stands as a monument to the neighborhood's industrial roots, even after a 2005 renovation that fancied it up to match neighboring lofts. BridgePort's eponymous IPA was introduced in 1996 (see feature on page 65), setting the regional standard for the style, even if it seems only mildly hoppy today. BridgePort's slate of regulars—from the well-balanced Kingpin Double Red Ale to the cherry-infused Bear Hug stout—remain great entry points to the malty maze that eventually leads to a barrel-aged nanobrew made with fennel and roasted beef hearts. MATTHEW SINGER.

DRINK THIS: Long Ball Ale, a light, nearly sessionable summer ale brewed in honor of the Hillsboro Hops minor-league baseball team.