Captured by Porches

40 Cowlitz St., St. Helens, 757-8359,

When a brewery begins its life supplying homebrew for house parties, you know its heart is in the right place. But Captured by Porches is even more Portland than that: Following a stint at the maligned Clinton Street Brewing—once one of PDX's smallest and diviest such establishments, it forced skunky brew on Rocky Horror fans at the theater next door—Porches' Dylan Goldsmith initially planned to set up shop in a converted gas station on a stretch of Highway 30 best known for veganism and stripping. Instead, he ended up in a small, unmarked warehouse on the waterfront in St. Helens, where the company brews up kegs for delivery to a fleet of buses at food-cart pods (chiefly Southeast Ankeny Street and 28th Avenue), which pour pints into mason jars via side-mounted taps. And while that model resulted in some conflict with the government regarding non-brick-and-mortar beer distribution—they've since made friends—it also adds something to the experience of guzzling the brewery's rotating selection of playful standbys, such as the surprisingly mellow Invasive Species IPA, and ultra-limited seasonals like the red, unmalted amber Emma. Because of Goldsmith, we live in a town where you and your dog can roll up to a funky bus, pay a $1 deposit for a reusable bottle and fill up on vegan beer paired with gourmet grilled cheese. Cheers to that. AP KRYZA.

DRINK THIS: Grab seasonals like Miskatonic Dark Rye when they're available just because they're fun. Invasive Species IPA is a constant pleaser, a less hoppy pint of the English tradition.