Deschutes Portland
Public House

210 NW 11th Ave., 296-4906, 11am–10pm Sunday-Tuesday, 11am-11pm Wednesday-Thursday, 11am-midnight Friday-Saturday.

The Pearl offshoot of this gigantic Bend brewery is, well, very Pearl. Behind the red-brick facade you find a brewpub with yuppie pub grub like paprika fries, piquant Thai wings and a Caesar salad made with kale. Look through the windows behind the bar and you'll see kettles. Those aren't just for show, as this joint employs its own brewer who makes pub-only offerings like the light Lionheart Belgian IPA and the wintry Stollen Weizenbock. A flight of tasters runs $8 for six samples, or you can buy a pint of Black Butte Porter shipped from the mountains or get last year's Abyss, pouring on nitro, for a mere $7. JOHN LOCANTHI.

DRINK THIS: The Abyss on nitro. This darkest of dark beer comes in an elegant snifter. The wonderful flavor marries coffee, cocoa and bourbon.