Dirty Hands

114 E Evergreen Blvd., Vancouver, 360-258-0413, facebook.com/dirtyhandsbrewing. 3-9 pm Sunday-Monday and Thursday, 3-11 pm Friday-Saturday.

With the paint barely dry on the walls, Dirty Hands Brewing deserves a little leeway for being the new brewery on the block, especially when that block is in downtown Vancouver. Having opened a few months ago, Dirty Hands—the name references the old Works Progress Administration campaigns and is matched with beers like New Deal Amber—is bringing an approachable lineup of craft beers to the other side of the Columbia. The lighter beers on tap, like the Lunch Pail Ale and Steel Monkey IPA, are on the right track but need some dialing in to eliminate funky flavors. The aptly named Redemption Brown Ale is the best beer in Dirty Hands' lineup, with a mild, toasty sweetness and just enough bitterness to keep it balanced. PENELOPE BASS.

DRINK THIS: The Redemption Brown Ale is a solid choice for both novice and seasoned drinkers.