Hair of the Dog

61 SE Yamhill St., 232-6585, 11:30 am-8 pm Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 am-10 pm Friday-Saturday.

You'll find Hair of the Dog brewery soldiering onward in the gritty Eastside Industrial District, sandwiched between hooting freight trains and roaring highway traffic. That geography suits an old-school (founded in 1993), hard-assed (three of seven beers on the regular menu are at least 10-percent ABV) brewery, whose extra-strength pours have a long-standing national reputation, even though 90 Oregon breweries produced more product last year. The taproom is exposed beams, stained glass and food to keep you anchored—try the pork toast, which the menu describes as "tender bits of pig warmed slightly on grilled bread" ($5). If you only drink one beer here (which would be a minor tragedy), make it Adam, a chocolaty 10-percenter, as warm and comforting as a golden retriever but far less needy. NIGEL JAQUISS.

DRINK THIS: Adam, the brewery's classic "hearty old world ale." The brewery often has a few vintages available, but if you want to go big head over to Higgins restaurant, where they have a legendary burger and, for $75, "Adam Bier No. 1."