507 Columbia St., Vancouver, 360-566-2323. 4-8 pm Thursday, 4-10 pm Friday, 2-10 pm Saturday in winter.

Loowit owners Tom Poffenroth and Devon Bray wanted an "unpretentious" entry into Vancouver's fledgling craft-beer scene. And from the mismatched tables to the vintage video games parked in back of their 10-barrel brewing facility, their downtown location delivers that vibe, along with a tightly curated beer menu. Poffenroth and Bray say they're shooting for balance, not boldness. From a surprisingly round saison to a delicate wine-apple Imperial IPA, Loowit's brews are complex in precisely the way that '90s-era rage rock, blasting from the sound system, is not. Loowit (the native name for Mount St. Helens) soon plans to push south into Oregon. For now, the taproom abutting the downtown Hilton is full of thirsty, schwag-happy conventioneers. RAMONA DeNIES.

DRINK THIS: Made with beans from Torque, the nanoroastery next door, the otherwise silky-smooth Brewthulu Coffee Stout packs an aggressive caffeine punch. Breakfast all day!