915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3555, luckylab.com. 11 am-midnight Monday-Saturday, noon-10 pm Sunday.
Lucky Lab works on a large scale. The original location on Southeast Hawthorne and the Northwest location are former warehouses, and the Multnomah Village location actually fills a former Masonic Temple. And yet, they manage to make these big, broken-in boxes homey with Uncle Tupelo on the speakers, a well-stocked newsstand and acres of tatty wood tables. Look for a dozen taps at these collegial beer halls, most the Lab's own brew, made from a recipe book of 40 familiar names including a dozen varieties of IPA or pale ale. Huge outdoor patios are dog-friendly, the pizzas are big and doughy, and once a year they toss 250 pounds of hops grown at their Hawthorne location with hops from friends for fresh hop brew they call the Mutt. MARTIN CIZMAR.
DRINK THIS: Lucky Lab has a robust cask program, and often has the keg version of the beer on tap at the same time. If you see cask and tap versions of Stumptown Porter try them, as it's amazing how different they are.