The Mash Tun

2204 NE Alberta St., 548-4491, Noon-midnight Monday-Thursday, noon-1 am Friday-Saturday, 10 am-midnight Sunday.

The Mash Tun is the Michael Douglas of brewpubs. Started in 2005, it's a venerable institution by Portland standards, and as such conducts itself with the relaxed ease of a man who has nothing to lose and nothing left to prove. Exhibit A: Although the food is standard pub grub, it's good enough to eat sober. Exhibit B: Despite a prime location on Alberta, it remains a cool, relaxed haven for anyone seeking refuge from the chaos of Last Thursday—complete with plenty of seating, a dog-friendly patio, darts, pool and a jukebox. Exhibit C: Brewer Christian Brazard resists the pressure to follow trends, and the Mash Tun's tap list has nary a single quintuple-hopped abomination. Although the acidic tang off the cream ale is a reminder why this style is best served on nitro, a strong, sweet Scotch ale goes well with the burger, and the Kilgore Stout only gets smokier and denser as it warms. Did anyone even see You, Me and Dupree, anyway? ADRIENNE SO.

DRINK THIS: The signature Alberta Street Pale Ale, preferably paired with hot sauce-topped tater tots.