2828 NE Glisan St., 206-5221, migrationbrewing.com. 11-midnight Monday-Saturday, 11 am-10 pm Sunday.

Migration seems to be all about cross-pollination. Or at least, the mixing of grains. It ain't kosher, but it's interesting. Seemingly no beer has fewer than three hops and three grains—it's the Canadian approach to whiskey, applied to beer. The mixed Dry Hop is a pine forest in full seep, without being overly bitter. Along with the florals of the various hops, the sweet blended grains of the Luscious Lupulin IPA lend almost a cereal character: It's a uniquely soothing IPA, to go with what is essentially a soothing bar despite its spartan décor. Moms tote kids in papooses, somebody's feeding someone else's dog, and there's a mural with deer on the wall. Migration likes to make things easy, a little bit comfortable, and it's hard to argue with them. MATTHEW KORFHAGE.

Drink this: The Old Silenus old ale is complex and rewarding.