The Old Market Pub & Brewery

6959 SW Multnomah Blvd., 244-2337, 11 am- midnight Monday-Thursday, 11 am-1 am Friday, 9-1 am Saturday, 9 am-11 pm Sunday.

Opened in 1994, the Old Market Pub is indeed old. One of Portland's pioneering brewpubs 20 years ago, this Garden Home pub is still very popular judging by the bartender's first-name greeting to many customers. It's a big, rambling place with low ceilings and a windowed dining room of 20-odd wooden booths in the front and, in back, another dining area and a game room with four pool tables, four shuffleboard tables and lottery games. Oh, and a banquet room decorated with a very odd mural of Vegas-era Elvis playing pool with invisible dogs. As you might guess from the number of tables and booths, many come for the food. The pub-grub menu is large, varied and popular, and there's a happy-hour menu, too. Not for the beer, though—suds are $4.75 for one of those hated shaker-style pint glasses. Competently brewed beers from the adjoining brewery include the popular Mr. Toad's Wild Red, British Bombay IPA, Rat Dog ESB, Black Magic Stout and Multnomah Village Golden, which also provides the basis for the habanero-spiked Hot Tamale and the apple-essense Ol' Granny Smith. FRANK JOHNSTON.

DRINK THIS: Mr. Toad's Wild Red may be the most popular tap, but the Alt  has a great balance.