9073 SE Sunnyside Road, Happy Valley, 659-1282, theram.com. 11 am-close daily.

Ah, the Ram: 43 years old and ticking like your dad's wristwatch. The brewhouse chain's name does not trip quickly off the tongue when discussing Oregon beers (the chain started in Washington), but it serves a valuable function nonetheless; it's an outpost for craft beer in spots (the suburban mall, mainly) where it otherwise does not exist. The standard beer styles are a bit staid, afflicted with the industrial-tasting maltiness of a lot of old-school brews, but the brewers at each location do get a little freedom to make adjustments and personal seasonals. In Salem, they're aging barleywine. In Clackamas? Meet the Chewhoppa, an Imperial IPA with a lavender and lemon bouquet of six hops varieties. Recently, it was the best thing on the beer list. MATTHEW KORFHAGE.

Drink this: Of the standards, stick to the Blonde and the IPA.