Walking Man

240 SW 1st St., Stevenson, Wash., 509-427-5520, facebook.com/WalkingManBeer. 4-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, 3-9 pm Friday-Saturday, 3-8 pm Sunday.

Ask Portland beer geeks to name a favorite brewery near town and on the Washington side of the Columbia, and they'll probably namecheck Walking Man. Partly, that's because the brewery has been around for 13 years—long before the population boom that brought the town of Stevenson up to 1,465. Park outside the Skamania Fire Department and find your way down the stairs to this basement brewpub to find an impressive selection of well-brewed beers. The grassy, herbal IPA won gold at the World Beer Cup a few years back. The sweet Black Cherry Stout tastes like cherry Luden's cough drops to some, though I'm a fan. The Homo Erectus Imperial IPA, on the other hand smells like a freshly mowed soccer field—in a good way. It's well worth the 40-minute drive and $1 bridge fare and stands a good chance of prompting you to name this your favorite Washington brewery. MARTIN CIZMAR.

DRINK THIS: Go with either the stellar IPA or the Jaywalker Russian Imperial Stout, which is 12 percent alcohol.