4534 SE Belmont St., 232-2202, horsebrass.com. 11 am-2:30 am daily.

If you want some sense of Horse Brass' stature within the local beer scene, consider how it handled Pliny The Younger. While Russian River Brewing's other favored accounts were determining how to best leverage their keg of the highly sought beer, the Brass brass simply tapped it on a random Thursday night without fanfare. There was no limit to how many 4-ounce pours you could you could buy and no hullabaloo when the keg finally blew just before 8 pm. Across the dimly lit Brit-styled pub, you could see table after table look up from their plates of crispy fried halibut and chunky chips sopped in brown sauce, to learn the news, suffer a moment of disappointment and then contentedly order something else from deep lists spread over two pages of water-pocked paper menu.