Reel M' Inn

2430 SE Division St., 231-3880. 10 am-2:30 am Monday-Saturday, 10 am-1 am Sunday.

The graffiti-strewn interiors of Reel M'Inn don't seem like where you'd find your lunch. But nonetheless. Recently name-checked by Nashville celebrity chef Sean Brock of Husk as inspiration, the downmarket neighborhood pub's no-frills technique enables the bartender on duty to plop lightly spiced, freshly breaded poultry into precisely heated oil behind the bar for ginormous servings bursting with flavor. A single breast ($3.50) or leg and thigh ($1.75; $3) should be all the chicken any man ever needs, and the three-piece meal ($7.75) allows plentiful space to daub a half-dozen sauces upon meats white and dark, though tread softly with the accompanying jojos lest ye carb-load for the season. JAY HORTON.

Happy hour: "We're amazingly cheap all the time," their bartender told us.
Entertainment: Pool, sports TV, jukebox.