8105 SE Stark St., 255-0049, 11-2:30 am Monday-Friday, noon-2:30 am Saturday-Sunday.

True story: A contributor to this very publication once deemed Roscoe's "scary." While this Montavilla faux dive's rugged exterior scares off suburban mooks, inside it's now a warm den of wood and brew. Look for sampler flights, tap takeovers and special tastings on the last Friday of the month. Also look for sushi delivery, from the neighboring Miyamoto Sushi, to pair with Roscoe's homegrown Southern fare. Because why not? MARTIN CIZMAR.

Happy hour: 2-6, food specials, $1 off wells.