4057 N Mississippi Ave., 284-6669, 3 pm-2:30 am weekdays, 10-2:30 am weekends.

Interurban is a bit like a mountain chalet owned by your terribly rich and discriminating friend. The fires in the back-deck gazebo are accented by blond wood and climbing vines, and the house cocktails are mostly classic mixtures with the odd idiosyncratic flourish: e.g., the Fighting Cock bourbon plus Cock & Bull ginger beer of the Sword Fight ($6). The oyster board rotates daily, as do the hot dogs, which may include kimchee or blue cheese. Bone marrow ($8) is served, humbly, with salsa verde. Not merely beer but wine growlers are filled. Your friend has been to Switzerland and has learned neutrality, leaning elegantly neither rive gauche nor droite—and invites to his cabin only trim, stubbled men and beautiful women. My God, you hate your friend. But you love his mountain cabin, and everything in it. And every time you bring a date there, they like you a little bit more. MATTHEW KORFHAGE.

Happy Hour: 3-6 pm Monday-Friday, after 10 pm Sunday. A full page of specials, including $2 rotating beer, food and wine deals and $5 specialty cocktails.