2958 NE Glisan St., 232-1504, 4 pm-midnight Monday-Wednesday, 4 pm-1 am Thursday, 4 pm-2 am Friday, 3 pm-2 am Saturday, 3 pm-midnight Sunday.

The edge of Laurelhurst is an odd spot for this little countrified dive. But the crowds, they do come, and they do dance. A long bar is well-equipped, but bluegrass bands playing a short, carpeted stage are the real attraction. On Sunday nights, that's the Freak Mountain Ramblers, who sound exactly like a band called the Freak Mountain Ramblers should sound and who make this the undisputed most happening place in Portland at that time. If you finally weasel your way into one of the black upholstered booths, you may be reluctant to get back onto the checkerboard dance floor unless your glass goes dry. Might we suggest getting your ass up anyway? MARTIN CIZMAR.

What plays: Old- and good-time music, and music where old people have a good time.