Bar Review: Ex Novo

Good Intentions.

EX NOVO

Portland welcomed the nation's first nonprofit pub, Oregon Public House, last year. Some questioned the city's decision to give $50,000 in grants to a church-affiliated bar on Dekum Triangle, but no one's complaining about the pub itself, which is wonderful. Last month, the city also got a nonprofit brewery, called Ex Novo (2326 N Flint Ave., 894-8251, exnovobrew.com). The causes are good—groups that mentor at-risk kids, offer legal assistance to the poor and provide food for refugees—but the rest needs work. The hours, for starters. Who closes a bar at 9 pm, even on a Monday? Then there's the beer, which includes a dreadful Scottish red, a British-style barely bitter IPA (40 IBUs at launch, 60ish today) and a soapy session pale. Our taster flight came warm and flat enough that I wondered whether it was served from a cask. Oh, and a terrible sandwich of brisket trimmings ($12) on a hard, dry bun with a discordant mustard sauce. If you're at Ex Novo anytime soon, stick to the stout ($4.50) and the roasted yams with red rice ($9), both of which will be especially good in cooler months. Hopefully, the rest of the menu will round into form by then, too. 

WWeek 2015

Martin Cizmar

Martin Cizmar is the former Arts & Culture editor.

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