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[THE BOSS] Hold your horses about the damned brisket for a second. Let's first discuss the dish that convinced me of Rodney Muirhead's genius. That's the Texas red chili at this food-cart-turned-2011-restaurant-of-the-year, which comes in a bowl for $7.50 or as a traditional in-bag Frito pie for $5.75. This deep brownish-red, obscenely rich beef-and-pepper stew reminds me more than anything—don't laugh, now—of Le Pigeon's beef cheek bourguignon, but with tomato offering up the sugar that comes from wine in the French dish. And then, sure, there's that perfectly smoky brisket, which is best enjoyed as part of the Pit Boss ($23), the city's best 'cue sampler, with peppery ribs, a quarter-pound of vinegar-sprinkled pulled pork and a juicy smoked sausage. Oh, and two sides which always seem to be on-point. The black-eyed pea salad—Texas caviar, they call it—has enough acid to cut through some of that sticky sauce, but it's hard to pass on the crispy-topped mac 'n' cheese. MARTIN CIZMAR.
Are you totally over wedge salads? Us too. Get this one anyway. A full quarter head topped with airy croutons and the best blue cheese dressing in town for $6.
The Directory: Our 100 Favorite Restaurants in Portland
By Neighborhood: Southeast | North/Northeast | Westside | Suburbs
2014 Restaurant of the Year: Kachka
Top Five: Old Salt, Ataula, American Local, Expatriate
Counter Service Spots: Latin | Asian | Italian | Sandwiches | Burgers
Wine Bars | Beer Lists | Veg-Friendly | Gluten-free | Elsewhere in Oregon
WWeek 2015