Amnesia

1834 Main St., Washougal, Wash., 360-335-1008, amnesiabrews.com. 3-10 pm Monday and Wednesday, 11 am-10 pm Thursday-Saturday, 2-9 pm Sunday. Closed Tuesdays during winter.

[THE 'SHOUG'] It's been a little over a year since Amnesia abandoned its North Mississippi Avenue origins in favor of its sleek new headquarters in Washougal. It's almost as if they've started over completely, a stranger in a strange land. The new space anchors a sleek modern development along the northeasterly exurb's main drag, and the added capacity allows Amnesia to amp up production of barrel-aged beers and follow through on plans for major aluminum trafficking. Inside, there's a heavenly scent of wood smoke floating in from the kitchen, and a jangly melange of outlaw country humming in your ears. The beers are exceptional, from the light and lovely Dusty Trail Pale to the barrel-aged bombast of the Sleigh Jerker, to a CDA that will flip even the staunchest of CDA critics, to the creamy bliss of a pair of milk-shook stouts. Not all of Portland has forgotten. Those who remember are richly rewarded.

DRINK THIS: Milk of Amnesia is a strong stout made silky smooth with loads of creamy milk sugar and smooth oats. Better yet, if you can get it, is the chocolate version, aged on rum-soaked cocoa nibs and vanilla beans.