Dirty Hands

114 E Evergreen Blvd., Vancouver, Wash., 360-258-0413, dirtyhandsbrewing.com. 4-10 pm Monday-Thursday, noon-10 pm Friday-Saturday.

[IN THE VAN] Dirty Hands is a one-stop road trip. The little downtown Vancouver brewpub looks like a small-town Midwestern sports bar, with tile floors, license plates, Big 10 football flags and "96 Tears" playing over the speakers. The menu includes deviled eggs, Detroit-style coney dogs and a meatloaf sandwich. It's charming, but even after a year the beer isn't quite ready for the big dance. The Mule Wheat and Steel Monkey were both stale on our visit, while the Wee Heavy was syrupy-sweet and unbalanced. Beerwise, you can do much better in these parts.

DRINK THIS: Ask what's fresh.