Hair of the Dog

61 SE Yamhill St., 232-6585, hairofthedog.com. 11:30 am-10 pm Tuesday-Saturday, 11:30 am-8 pm Sunday.

[BITES YA] Hair of the Dog is a classy joint. They serve their tasters in mini wine glasses, and if that fedora-clad bulldog on the logo isn't the pinnacle of sophistication, then, really, what is? The neighborhood is still a little rough, but the brewery's corner spot just off the Morrison Bridge off-ramp provides a beautiful view of the city's skyline. Hair of the Dog deserves its reputation for being far ahead of the curve on the unconventional conditioning game, which head brewer Alan Sprints has been practicing since he first visited Belgium in 1991. Most of HOTD's brews are aged in barrels and mostly meant to age in bottles, the first of which are still hanging out in the brewery's cellar. As one might expect, this gives the beer complex, cloudy flavors. Adam, whose name comes from its style, Dortmunder Adambier, is dark and smoky, and Ruth's floral aroma gives way to a honey taste and a sweet finish. Just be careful driving home—the beers are strong and cops love hanging out in this 'hood.

DRINK THIS: Ruth, a now-classic American ale, has a floral nose and a refreshingly mild, hoppy taste.