Long Brewing

29380 NE Owls Lane, Newberg, 349-8341, longbrewing.com. By appointment only.

[LEGENDARY LAGERS] If future generations want to grow a clone of the perfect small-batch brewer, they'd probably start with Paul Long. The retired electrical engineer is the son of an Independence hop farmer and plowed through the American Homebrewers Association like a mustachioed George Mikan before going commercial, winning top ribbons for six different styles. The operation responsible for his bottle-only line is a secondary hobby for Long, picked up after 40 years as an oenophile. In fact, it's the complexity and balance of a wine that Long searches for in each batch. The brews he alchemizes are meticulous. The lagers are clean, the IPA is a stunning example of the form, and the blonde and kolsch are sunny treats with a subtle glow. Paul's eponymous porter is delicate, laced with cocoa and caramel roast. It's tempting to name each pour Long's finest, but then you're handed another and forced to reconsider. His Roarkian opposition to compromise has earned him the plaudits of Valley vintners and tap space in wine country fine-dining establishments. Long's cherished nectar is spendy, with single bottles mostly sold through boutique markets with imported pasta noodles and running upwards of a sawbuck. Tastings happen by appointment only at Paul's homespun brewing facility in the hills above Newberg.

DRINK THIS: Everything is good. If Paul has something barrel-aged to offer, you're especially fortunate.