 Service with a smirk: Server Kate Lucas with Bumble-goods.
IMAGE: JENNA BIGGS |
Mixed messages prevail at this sweet yet confusing Northeast brunch spot. Some of Bumblekiss' gestures are meant to charm but awkwardly misfire, and many menu items suffer from multiple personality disorder. But while disparate elements can create chaos, they can also work together to imbue a sense of endearing, if flawed, well-roundedness.
Housed in a cozy Beaumont cottage painted cheddar orange, the restaurant, which youthful Lisa and Vincent Chavez (both are approaching 30) opened last April, couldn't be cuter. Exotic foliage and a peaceful patio place Bumblekiss among the city's top outdoor dining atmospheres. And the spot's dreaminess goes a long way in compensating for its deficiencies. Servers stumble a bit over the glitches inherent in a new routine, but they are sincerely sweet enough to make missing flatware and salad dressing easy to forgive.
The first menu category, "munch while you wait," is cause for greater concern—is the wait really so long that it requires its own menu? On a recent Sunday, the answer was yes; by the time our brunch arrived 45 minutes later, the mini muffins ($2.50) were long gone. Still, it's a thoughtful touch.
Signage promising "ridiculously tasty" meals is probably meant to inspire confidence but, like the word "quality" in the name of a roadside hotel, does just the opposite. Sure, some dishes, like extraordinary pancakes ($4-$6.50) rich in eggs and buttermilk, are tasty, but what's ridiculous are the over-the-top ingredient combinations that seem to be the cafe's trademark. Another breakfast joint might offer classic French toast with fruit, but here the "Utopia" ($9.50) tops French toast made from cinnamon-swirl bread with mixed berries and hazelnuts and Dagoba chocolate, with a bacon-cheddar scramble on the side. There are so many flavors and textures vying for your attention that none is able to shine through in the crowd.
There are so many ingredients to keep track of that more boring details, like cranking out a consistent product, suffer as a result. On one visit that French toast (which makes an appearance in a "Bumble Cristo" and alongside egg dishes too) was moist with ribbons of sweet cinnamon goo. Another day it was dry and stuck in one's craw.
Bumblekiss is an adorable neighborhood place, but it has bit off more than it can chew. With a little experience and a more streamlined menu, however, it could soon hit on the winning combination.
Bumblekiss, 3517 NE 46th Ave., 282-6313. Breakfast and lunch 7 am-3:30 pm Tuesday-Sunday. $ Inexpensive.
I know, it is easy to take shots at food critics. They have to sound good to keep people reading past the first sentence. Keep cashing those WW checks. But ask yourself- if I had the nuts, would I work where I am at, or would I take a chance on a dream?
On to Bumblekiss. The owners are in their late 20's, and started a restaurant because they have a vision and the balls to go after it. How many of you can say the same? Do you care to give up that salaried job to roll the bones (on a restaurant, no less)?
I am a 34 year old married man that appreciates good food; Vince, Lisa, and the Bumblekiss crew deserve better than you gave them. They started the restaurant because they thought they could share their passion and make a living; not make a living by selling food. Are things always perfect? No. Are they usually excellent? Yes. We eat there weekly, and have explored most of the menu. Everything on the menu is somewhat unique, not for the sake of being different, but because the owners think it tastes good!
Think of the impact of an overly negative review on a new restaurant that is trying to build a consistent audience, and try not to be so snide.
I find this review VERY eerily similar to my experience at Bumblekiss the other day. Long wait (with a slightly rude, explanation-less host). It would have been nice to know that the three empty tables in front of us during that long wait were for people who had *called in reservations*.
The mimosas were lovely, the food great -but even though they were slightly nicer when we were seated, the bad beginning made me feel uncomfortable and unwelcome the entire meal.
I am very easygoing, forgiving, and quiet. For me to give a review like this, and feel this way, is a big deal.
My experience with Bumblekiss has always been excellent. Vince and crew are always willing to please and they work very hard at sharing their passion. My wife and I crave Bumblekiss on many occasion and have made it a weekly destination. Yummmy stuff, fun times.
Simply put, I love this place. So, give it a try - you may find that you do too :)