In a city full of restaurants that bill themselves as an experience, Navarre lives up to the claim. small groups of art students grown up, and sightlines straight into the kitchen, where a handful of robust chefs make magic with their armada of copper pots.

Photo: Hilary Sander
Photo: Hilary Sander

The menu is a literal checklist on a clipboard that asks you to decide between small or large plates of rich dishes like lamb roulade with dried fruit, kohlrabi gratin or foie gras on cumin toast. A regular list of 50-plus wines will cover even the most obscure, fennel pollen-dusted rabbit or lentils. The real experience though, is checking "dinner for the table" ($32 per person) and making yourself at home.

Photo: Hilary Sander
Photo: Hilary Sander

Pro tip: Letting the well-versed staff choose your wine pairings is well worth the extra $18 a person.

GO: 10 NE 28th Ave., 232-3555, navarreportland.com. 4:30-10:30 pm Monday-Thursday, 4:30-11:30 pm Friday, 9:30 am-11:30 pm Saturday, 9:30 am-10:30 pm Sunday. $$$.