When consuming anything raw, quality is paramount. So it's no surprise the beef tartare served up by Old Salt is one of the best things on a beautifully meaty menu.

Chopped to a silky texture and topped with a zippy horseradish cream alongside paper-thin crostini, the combination of flavors and textures is a carnivorous revelation.

Old Salt sources whole animals from Oregon farms and ranches, butchers in house and stocks its front-of-the-house meat case with a rainbow of artisan cuts.

Photo: Nolan Calisch
Photo: Nolan Calisch

Diners in the "supperhouse" can order straight from the butcher's case and witness their cuts of choice grilled on the restaurant's large, open hearth. Seasonal fruits and vegetables punctuate the meat parade, like snappy green beans and delicate peaches tossed in sherry vinaigrette and complemented by thin slices of salty tasso ham, or tender beets and bitter greens with ricotta and almonds. Round it out with the Old Salt Old Fashioned made with brown butter.

Photo: Nolan Calisch
Photo: Nolan Calisch

Pro tip: Don't overlook the "Let us cook for you!" option at the bottom of the menu. Starting at $30 per person, the tasting menu is a satiating adventure.

GO: 5027 NE 42nd Ave., 971-255-0167, oldsaltpdx.com. 5 pm-late nightly, 9 am- 3 pm Saturday-Sunday. $$$.