Tasty n Alder bills itself as a modern steakhouse, but has none of the leathery conventions that define the genre. So let's call it a postmodern steakhouse. Styled in the now-ubiquitous industrial chic of brushed nickel accents, bare wood and Edison bulbs and serving all of its worldly and diverse menu family style. You never know what will arrive when.

Photo: Thomas Teal
Photo: Thomas Teal

We got our goat cheese dumplings ($15) first, nestled atop a sauce of stewed tomatoes and Calabrian chilies. Duck duck potatoes ($8) are agency man's answer to jojos and ranch, with a runny yolk to intensify the richness of the duck fat. When in season, Mexican street corn on the cob ($7) is a must-have, with blackened kernels slathered in Southern-style Duke's mayo and topped by a mound of cotija cheese. The slightly sweet, juicy cowboy skirt steak ($19) comes with big, brown beans and cheese curds—two items you don't often see bedded down together that really should be. Buttery cedar-plank salmon ($29) is adorned with chimichurri, cilantro and dill.

Photo: Thomas Teal
Photo: Thomas Teal

Pro tip: Weekday brunch is your best bet for avoiding long lines.

GO: 580 SW 12th Ave., 621-9251, tastynalder.com. 9 am-10 pm Sunday-Thursday. 9 am-11 pm Friday-Saturday. $$$-$$$$.