Southwest 9th Avenue and Alder Street, bingmiportland.com. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday, lunch Saturday.

Jian bing is the quintessential Chinese street food, found on every Northern roadside—but until now, nowhere in Portland. They're mung-bean-and-millet crepes folded around a riot of ferment and sweet heat: Black bean and chili pastes mingle with herbs, pickled bamboo and mushroom, and an optional sweet plum sauce that I heartily recommend. The real piece of genius, though, is that big brick of wonton cracker and its deeply rewarding crunch. Jian bing ($6.50) is the only thing on the menu, and they're flat-out fantastic, whether with or without the sweet Chinese sausage you can tack on for a buck. Indeed, the meat texture is a bit of a fifth wheel amid the already bustling party of flavors.