3010 SE Division St., 477-6699; 2039 NE Alberta St., 971-200-4711; bollywoodtheaterpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.
Jewel in the crown of Troy MacLarty's burgeoning Bollywood empire, this Division Street colony tripled the size of the Alberta original to imagineer a Mumbai CityWalk with its own corner grocery stocking curry leaves, house ghee and MacLarty's line of fresh spices harvested directly from India's Kerala region. The cinematic sparkle extends to a menu dotted with street-food faves borrowed from the subcontinent. Lamb samosas ($8.50) arrive crisped to a golden brown and perfectly paired with accompanying tomato-raisin and iridescent green chutneys. Swaddled in paratha flatbread, the kati roll ($9.50) best resembles an outsized burrito stuffed with pickled onions and velvety paneer or tangy beef. It's an amiable approach to a cuisine often blamed for weaponized seasonings, and while plates like Goan-style shrimp ($12) temper the chiles, there's heat enough for patrons to continually rejoin the milling queue for another round of Pimm's or Kingfisher.