C'est Si Bon

By Robert Fernas

22 NE 7th Ave., 935-3761, cestsibonpdx.com. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday.

This candlelit creperie behind Burnside Brewing specializes in wine, French bistro fare and a cozy intimacy that can be hard to find in Portland. Owner John Esbeck, a former sommelier, will help you choose the right wine to go with the well-crafted food, such as a tangy Côtes de Gasgogne paired with a starter of steamed mussels in a sop-worthy mirepoix broth. C'est Si Bon has sold crepes at local farmers markets for several years, and they are divided into "savory" ($11-$12) and "sweet" ($6-$7). Among the savories, a buckwheat crepe filled with pork confit, caramelized onion and apple and pear butter was a tasty blend of tender, earthy richness, and was complemented by a glass of medium-bodied Côtes du Rhone. Finally, a dessert crepe of Meyer lemon curd—accentuated by a sprinkle of powdered sugar and a dollop of creme fraiche—and the noble rot of sweet Sauternes brought the meal to a satisfying end, leaving a warm glow matched by the lighting.

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