6034 SE Milwaukie Ave., 232-1826, portlandironhorse.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

This taverny Tex-Mex spot is one of the most welcoming restaurants in Sellwood, in part because it's less restaurant than it is Sellwood's greatest specialty: a dive bar. It plays classic rock, and there's not much in the way of decoration beyond a few strings of Christmas lights and some sombreros, although the tasty strawberry margarita ($8.50) is plenty festive. The encyclopedic, cheese-heavy menu includes everything from Dungeness crab enchiladas to a pesto chicken quesadilla. There are three salsas, and servers will bring you little containers of each, but good luck with refills. Chile Colorado is made with sirloin and came inside a cheese-smothered burrito ($13.95) on a plate with Spanish rice and plump black beans.

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