8305 SE Powell Blvd., 771-6868. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

When a friend asked a couple from Singapore, long ago, their favorite Chinese spot in town, they didn't pause: Kenny's Noodle House. It was the only place they ate, and they declared it just as good as the noodle spots in Singapore and Hong Kong. Immigrants from California Chinese communities and Shanghai have since heaped similar praise, and a seat for brunch here among the many Chinese families is every bit as competitive as at Screen Door. The menu is unendingly long, but there are pretty much only two things on it, in infinite variations. One is Portland's most esteemed and beloved Hong Kong-style dumpling noodle soup—with deeply rich broth, especially if you order the version with brisket. The other is the beautifully savory, thick and creamy congee with meat swirled within—brisket, dried oyster, pork belly, you name it. A brisket plate and oyster-sauced greens are beautiful deep cuts. But order anything, really: Kenny's is heaven, except way more crowded.