The Frying Scotsman

By Walker MacMurdo

9 SW Alder St., 706-3841, thefryingscotsmanpdx.com. Lunch Monday-Saturday.

The Frying Scotsman makes authentic fish 'n' chips, which is different from the extraordinarily priced pub meal version you see at bars called "Whisky O'Whisky's" and the like. The chips are thick, pillowy wedges of potato that taste less like pure crunch and more like fried gnocchi. The crunch, and what a crunch it is, comes from the slabs of cod, halibut, haddock, red snapper or mahi-mahi ($8.50-$11), fried perfectly golden brown in a batter that tastes lightly of curry powder. Everything is appropriately slathered in grease and denser than a dying sun, especially the deep-fried Mars bar ($3.50), which may pack more calories per cubic inch than any other food item. You do not need a large order, unless you are splitting it with a friend or loved one. If the weather is good, enjoy your meal with plenty of salt, malt vinegar and ketchup in Director Park or O'Bryant Square. Fish and chips are best eaten outside.

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