Two years after he took over the former Tropicana soul-food shack, pitmaster Cliff Allen's pork loin has slipped a bit from its original earnest perfections. But the porchetta sandwich is superb. Made with a combo of roast pork loin and pork belly and massaged with a fennel-garlic rub, the meat is both pepper-spicy and deeply herbal.

GO: 3004 E Burnside St., 503-233-8941, 3217 N Williams Ave., 503-282-2800,, 11 am-9 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-10 pm Friday-Saturday. $.