Michael C. Zusman

Our recent meal was a multidimensional blockbuster.

Wholesale operations will continue, however, with a talented culinary lineup.

Offerings in Beaverton and Hillsboro include Andhra chicken curry, crispy dosas, biryanis big enough for two, and rare Indian sweets.

Commonly used ingredients include nuts for crunch, chiles for an attitudinal undertone, and plenty of bold, umami-charged components, such as fungi, cheese and cured tiny fish.

Dame may be the most wonderful, underpublicized restaurant in Portland.

Tickets to the first two weeks of meals have already sold out, so you’d be well advised to sign up for the wait list now.

The restaurant “is a direct reflection of the creativity in Thailand right now as seen through the eyes of our MMFIC.” That stands for “Main Motherfucker in Charge,” culinary star Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom.

The restaurant shares a building with Snow Peak, where after dinner you can buy the $200 flame-resistant Takibi blanket—yes, that’s really the name—next door.

The idea of simultaneously serving each twosome one vegetarian-leaning multicourse lineup and one with a meatier bent is brilliant, especially for good eaters who share.

Push x Pull provides a cup above the rest, and Cloudforest’s chocolate can brighten even the grayest winter day.

Grilled stuff on sticks was a particular pleasure at Ping: bacon-wrapped quail eggs with spicy mayo, simply salted chicken hearts, little pork meatballs, baby octopi dressed in a tongue-searing chile-lime sauce.

If I had to recommend one dish that best showcases Denison’s hard-earned expertise, it would be his ultra-rustic pâté en croûte ($14), a mixture of ground pork—forcemeat or farce in charcutier’s vernacular—and other ingredients cloaked in pastry, baked, then chilled and sliced for service.

Located in the former home of Pearl District sports bar On Deck, the restaurant is an expansive, 8,000-square-foot rooftop venue shared with gin bar the Botanist.

The long-awaited Malka is the restaurant version. Items on the menu have nutty names and even crazier compositions. Each dish is a madcap mélange of a dozen or more ingredients that, on paper, couldn’t possibly work together, yet invariably do. A meal at Malka is chaos that magically coalesces into harmony. And everyone seems to leave happy.

Dóttir, the restaurant that occupies the lobby of Kex, the new “social hotel” with roots in Reykjavík at the east end of the Burnside Bridge, thankfully does not serve hakarl. In fact, there is little on its menu that’s distinctly Icelandic. Of course, not serving rotting fish flesh is a low bar for success. But so far, it’s one of the 2-month-old restaurant’s few notable achievements.