The first boundary at Boundary Wine Lounge (125 SW Mitchell St., 702-6026, boundary.club) is the challenge of finding the door. After walking around the building in the Southwest Corbett neighborhood a couple times, we had to ask for directions at Elephant's Deli, then go around a corner, up some stairs and into the back parking lot. The nigh-unmarked door stands next to a pair of dumpsters. But inside, the low-lit, warm-wooded room is a tiny, cellared ode to money and discreet tastefulness, like Narnia through the wardrobe.

(Rachael Renee Levasseur)
(Rachael Renee Levasseur)

After April 2, the tiny private club will be open only to the 110 people who've paid $1,000 each to become members. But for now, you can learn how the other 1 percent lives. The room holds crystal chandeliers that look a lot like the ones at Multnomah Whiskey Library, as well as the mounted head of a cape buffalo the approximate size of a Car2Go looming over the fireplace. It's wonderful in there. I had the first sherry cocktail I've ever truly loved, an $11 Little Owl made with Smith and Cross rum, plus cinnamon and orgeat. It was like a more elegant answer to Navy Grog. A $13 German rosé was likewise lovely, and behind the bar, eight glowing bottles of wine are tapped at individual temperatures modulated by tenths of degrees.

(Rachael Renee Levasseur)
(Rachael Renee Levasseur)

I even liked the fig-and-prosciutto flatbread, and flatbread is boring. If busy MWL is the Disneyland version of a sumptuous drinking club—presenting each ingredient, parading faux exclusivity with a downstairs Green Room—Boundary is the real thing. But it's open to the public for only three more days, Thursday to Saturday. After that you need either a thousand dollars or the right kind of friend.